On Chrome & Winterizing
I must admit, I ignored the first warning sign. It was as plain as the nose on my face, but when I asked someone else to confirm my suspicion, the person I asked said she did not smell anything. So, lesson one: trust your nose.
By the time I had incontrovertible evidence, it was already too late--the damage had been done, and it would cost me, some grief and a bundle of money.
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Yes, it was ... MILDEW! The cellar was damp. But, of course, I was less concerned about the saddle than the bikes. So, out they all came for superficial inspection in broad daylight. One of them was showing signs of rust on the chrome. I took it to Argos Racing Cycles in Bristol for a thorough inspection, inside and out, and the verdict was that it would have to be completely stripped and resprayed. Discussions and emails followed, which inspired me to do some research into chroming and winterizing (two in principle separate, but pragmatically related, issues), and I should like to share what I have learned. Perhaps someone else will be spared similar grief.
Jack Denny did not like chrome and advised many customers against it. Argos inform me that other frame builders also do not like it. There are several reasons why:
1. Chrome plating is an aggressive industrial process. The entire frame is submerged in a vat of acid, and if the acid is not thoroughly neutralized afterwards, the frame can be damaged by the process.
2. Chromium is deadly posionous to humans.
3. The parts of the frame to be bright-chromed must be polished to a very high grade of smoothness, with emory paper or machines, before chroming, otherwise the chrome will look rough and dull. This polishing is labor-intensive, and there are certain places on a bicycle frame which are extremely difficult to polish to the required fineness: specifically, around the bb shell, and around the seat binder-bolt cluster.*
4. Chrome is porous, and while chrome itself does not rust, the metal underneath can, and that is the main subject of this missive.
There are two sorts of chroming: decorative (or bright chrome) and industrial (also called hard chroming). Decorative chroming is what is applied to bicycle frames: it gives a mirror-like surface, resistent to chipping and therefore good for wheel-clamping surfaces, but nonetheless porous and may allow rust to form underneath.
Click here for a chroming primer.
Below are photos of how chrome looks when the metal underneath rusts.
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This Editor once saw a frame where the chrome had actually separated from the underlying tube and formed a sleeve which could be rotated independently of the frame tube. Worst case scenario: the tube underneath becomes so badly damaged that it must be replaced.
Now let me show you what rust looks like inside the frame. (Photos courtesy of Argos; yes, they have a camera which can get inside the tubes.)
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Clearly, the frame had been subjected to too much humidity, not only the areas covered by chrome. The explanation is that the frame had been stored in a damp cellar without kit mounted on it, for at least two years, before being built up; no bb bearing to seal the bb shell, no seat pin to seal the st; moisture had crept in and attacked the tubes from the inside.
Lesson two: if you store a bare frame, seal the big openings with something moisture-proof: a dummy seat pin, a dummy bb bearing.
However, even built-up frames should be corrosion-protected, especially the chromed bits during winter. A coat of chrome polish will do the trick, as this leaves behind a protective film.
Lesson three: winterize your bike. Below: two products (Made in Germany) which effectively both polish up dull aluminium (upper) and chrome (lower) and leave a protective film. Recommended by NASA and the European Space Agency!
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If high humidity is expected (i.e, England, Scotland, Wales, NI, Eire), then chromed bits can be coated with Vaseline for winter storage. If full-chrome, then store the bike in the bedroom (you had probably better clear this with SWMBO ** first).
Mark Scott at Argos adds the following:
For internal rust protection, use Dynax-S50. Dynax-S50 is a high- performance anti-corrosion wax that provides exceptionally long-lasting protection to steel surfaces. This product is ideal for the inside of steel bicycle frames, this type of protection is often overlooked, the biggest killer of steel bicycle frames is internal corrosion. This product creeps into welded seams and seals surface defects. Dynax-S50 forms a soft, brown, wax-like film that self-heals in the event of disruption. It is also arrests existing corrosion and provides long-term protection to pre-corroded and corrosion-free surfaces.
Use ACF-50 (Anti-Corrosion Formula) for external protection. This is an ideal product to winterize your bike for storage. This product can be used on a built-up or finished bike to protect the surfaces of components, chrome surfaces, and paint. Once applied it coats the surfaces providing a layer of protection against damp and contaminants. ACF-50 has been approved for ferrous and non-ferrous metals. ACF-50 forms an active ultra-thin, clear film that kills existing corrosion cells, and will protect your bike against new corrosion forming. The product can be sprayed on or wiped on with a rag. It will leave behind a greasy layer, so must not be used on braking surfaces, tyres, and should also be kept away from the saddle and handlebar grips (as surfaces will become slippy). ACF-50 can cause swelling / expanding of natural rubber. One way to minimise this effect is to treat the rubber with a silicon product such as ArmorAll Protectant first. Product details:
Kills existing corrosion and prevents new corrosion from forming;
Active up to 12 months;
Excellent lubricant and penetrant;
Easily applied, non-drying, ultra thin, clear film.
Click here for Dynax-S50 rust inhibitor.
Click here for ACF-50 corrosion inhibitor.
Got all that? Good. Now comes the happy-end bit. Argos were able to clean out the internal rust using oxalic acid, and coat the inside with Dynax-S50 rust inhibitor, before respraying. Below: photos of the refurbished frame. Chrome remains on the clamping faces only, otherwise gloss black enamel, and, as with every dark cloud, silver lining. (Photos courtesy of Argos.)
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The Editor hereby acknowledges assistance in the preparation of this article from the experts at Argos Racing Cycles, Bristol. And thanks for a lovely respray.
Argos (Bristol, UK)
* A customer known to this Editor ordered a bespoke frame from a builder (not Paul Riley) known for long delivery times. When the frame finally arrived from the finishers, the chrome was inacceptable. Customer and builder took the frame back to the chromers and demanded restitution. During the de-chroming process, the frame was destroyed. In the opinion of this Editor, if you fancy lots of chrome, then go with stainless: it has 98% of the gleam, and none of the disadvantages noted above, of chrome.
** She Who Must Be Obeyed.
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